A Quiet Lunar New Year in Nanning: Memories of a City on Pause

Nanning, the capital of Guangxi in southern China, is typically a vibrant, green city known for its lush tropical foliage and bustling street life. However, looking back at my time there years ago, my memories are painted with a very different, quieter brush. 

Guangxi University by night.

When recalling the earliest days of the pandemic in China, many people picture locked-down cities, absolute silence, and overwhelming fear. But looking back at Nanning through my memories, it wasn't quite like that at all.

I had planned to celebrate Lunar New Year's Eve with my aunt's family by traveling to their home in Nanning. Before departure, whispers of a new outbreak had started to circulate, but I could not have imagined the severity of it. Since our visas were already issued and transport booked, we decided to go ahead with our plans.

The unusually quiet streets during the Lunar New Year.

Wide avenues completely emptied of the usual traffic.

Heading down into a subway station in Nanning.

A few days before the New Year, the rhythm of daily life felt normal, and I managed to stroll around and do some shopping. But shortly after, as New Year's Eve approached, everything shifted. Health warnings appeared everywhere, forcing me to become much more cautious and reserved every time I stepped outside.

A warm little bakery tucked away on the pedestrian street.

A quiet street, yet warmly open to welcome the New Year.

Although the streets were noticeably emptier, shops and boutiques remained open. The pedestrian streets and shopping malls were still operating. Everyone wore masks outdoors, and I carefully chose to go out rather than lock myself in a room and succumb to anxiety.

A major city is usually quiet during the Lunar New Year holiday, but the shadow of Covid-19 made it remarkably still. Despite feeling a bit disappointed, I refused to let worry trap me indoors. I put on my mask carefully and continued to step out. The pedestrian streets were beautifully decorated in vibrant red for the spring festival, yet they were sparsely populated. At the supermarkets and shopping centers, the atmosphere was slightly busier, but everyone rushed to grab their groceries and leave as quickly as possible.

The gentle rhythm of daily life quietly unfolds.

Empty, yet far from feeling lonely or desolate.

China has always been one of my favorite travel destinations, so there was a lingering sense of letdown that this trip didn't go as planned. However, beneath the masks and the cautious atmosphere, Nanning retained its brilliance. The city was still full of color, the culinary flavors remained intact, many charming shops stayed open, and there were unexpectedly deep discounts on goods. While wandering around, I even managed to pick up a few great bargains.

Storefronts beautifully adorned to celebrate the Spring Festival.

Stumbling upon a peaceful temple on my way to the grocery store.

It was an incredibly unique journey. There was a bit of fear and a bit of worry, but above all, I chose to stay optimistic. I had the rare opportunity to explore a new city while it was in a highly unusual state—a historical moment and a quiet landscape I will likely never witness again.

Pausing to capture the warm glow of lanterns in the old town.

I could sense that the locals shared that same feeling of disappointment, mixed with apprehension about an unpredictable future shaped by the virus. Yet, amidst that challenging situation, human vitality remained undeniably strong. Life carried on, the streets were still gorgeously adorned for the New Year, delicious food was served, and vibrant goods were on display, wrapping the entire experience into an unforgettable memory.

A brightly lit milk tea shop, still welcoming guests for the night.

A brilliant row of red lanterns glowing for the New Year.